INDIA 2010


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-- Ganesha's ("Bos") last photo, from 09/19/10 --
-- (His parents Murgesh and Sampa are seen sleeping in the background) --

Ganesha has disappeared -- 10/02/10


Palm Meadows - Imadhalli - trails to Northern Route - Chansandra - Patalamalevet: 0:50:28
Kadugodi - Along the rail tracks past the IPTL turn-off - to ITPL main road: 0:27:26
Urban streets to Sai Baba Hospital - Past ITPL - Pattandur Agrahara "Lake Community": 0:24:60
Back through Nellurhalli - Dunmore House area - West Trail: 0:25:56
Time: 2:08:51
Mileage: 14.3 Miles



(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)

I have resolved to run to Chansandra/Kadugodi, then come back through Pattandur Agrahara. I have pictures to distribute in these various places, particularly from Manni's family in Patalamalevet, as well at Sonu Khan's pictures from Ganesha Chaturthi in the "Lake Community".
But once out, I hesitate a bit. Today is the Gandhi Jayanti holiday, so I expected schools to be closed, especially given the recent fallout of the Ram Janmabhoomi / Babri Masjid verdict which has essentially shut down the country for the past three days for fear of communal riots, although luckily nothing has happened. The streets are indeed unusually quiet this Saturday morning (third day after the verdict), with the exception of the schools, where children in uniforms participate in various parades. Seeing this, I wonder if I should change my plans and venture out to the villages instead, but eventually stay the course towards Chansandra, running the "Northern Trail", briefly stopping by a hamlet along the way where I had previously taken a few pictures.

The tree which has sheltered Manni's family and various slumdwellers is now completely empty. Instead, I find the whole family inside that house under construction, still open to the street. A few surprises await me: Ubagarimary (Sampa and Valli's mother) has also slept here. She gets up painfully, looking awful, her cheeks swollen, her eyes red and puffed up. But the good news is that all the children are here today, Manni, Sangita who I haven't seen in a long time, and even Sathia, who must be spending the holiday away from the Hostel. All - except one.

I present the images I've brought to Murgesh, Bos, Bos, he cries nervously before finding the photo of his youngest child Ganesha, who they've nicknamed Bos. He points desperately at the picture, Bos, Bos, while Ubagarimary explains that the little boy has disappeared. In the side of the room, Sampa lying is heard crying, the shape of her body discreetly convulsing under her saree, hiding her face in the cloth. Bos, Ganesha, continues Murgesh with tears in his eyes, as if I hadn't understood him. The child was seen twelve days ago. The poor destitute man continues to repeat the child's name, as I reassure him that I know him very well. In the midst of all this, having noticed the pus coming out of Manni's ear, I ask Murgesh about it but get no response (instead Manni shows me other wounds on his legs). A few onlookers have joined the scene, as Murgesh and I touch hands. I propose going to the police with the photo to help them find him. A man from the small group that has gathered agrees to go with me. Murgesh mentions something about not having any money for the police, but I don't quite know what that means. Both parents sob and lament, as well as Ubagarimary, over the lost child, while I remember the wonderful smile he would always have for me, in spite of his incredible hardships, wandering the streets butt naked and filthy. I seize Murgesh's shoulder as I promise to do whatever I can (although I'm not sure what that is exactly), approach Sampa who's still lying in the corner, hold her hand as well, promising to return. She struggles to get up, attempts to touch my naked feet, but I push her back, feeling unworthy. Murgesh bows to similar gestures of prayer which I discourage. The children though, seemingly unaffected by this, start laughing at the way I pronounce their names, so we take turns at calling everyone by over-emphasizing the last syllable, Sangit-A, Sathi-A, Murgesh-A, Philippe-A... Murgesh himself ends up laughing at this game.
Preciously keeping two pictures of little Ganesha, including a close-up of his face, I leave with my new companion towards the Kadugodi police station, which happens to be right next to Sampa and Ruxanna's tent community.

We walk up the tracks, crossing the quays of Whitefield train station. My companion is a carpenter. I ask many questions of him, but for no apparent reason my Hindi is not clicking today, and I barely understand his answers (his Hindi may not be that good either). He believes it is possible that someone took the child to feed him and will return him eventually. In Kadugodi, sure enough, I meet many of my friends, first Arpudam, then Suresh by the tea stand, and finally Ruxanna in front of the police station, who's returning with a plastic jar of water. I explain the situation to them. Arpudam knew this already, and all sadly express no surprise. These children, they say, they come, they go, they come, they go, here, there, here, there... we all feel defeated. They shrug at the vanity of helping such destitute people, but the parents' hopeless behaviour is none of this poor child's fault, and I remind them that the search for these lost children (the children of the lake) is what led me to Kadugodi in the first place.
My companion reassures me that he'll do most of the talking, since this is my first time going to a police station. It's a small square building in a shaded courtyard. We enter the first room with about ten policemen in brown uniforms. We start stating our case, but are soon interrupted and held to silence as an important call is being received at the desk. We are again interrupted as a superior arrives, wearing a motorcycle helmet, and we all part for him to go through, while the policemen salute. One policeman disappears in the next room with small garlands of flowers. My companion and I both talk separately (him in Kannada, me in Hindi). I show the photo, but am asked to go back to Ganesha's parents to make sure the little boy hasn't disappeared with some relatives. I insist that this is highly unlikely. I ask whether they want the photo but am ask to return with passport size photos, which I promise to bring back in a few days. Offering little hope, one of the policemen concludes that Bangalore is a big city.... I unfortunately understand his point of view.
I offer the carpenter a drink at the tea stall outside of the slum, but he refuses. We comment on the events, he repeats that Ganesha's parents are worthless with alcohol, and offers to help me next time I visit the police, but unfortunately I still have a difficult time understanding him fully. Selflessly, he offers to help me again, another act of solidarity such as I've often witnessed here, so we exchange phone numbers. He insists that I call him next time I visit the police station. His name is Murthi.



-- The children play with food, Kadugodi --


Inside the slum is a usual peaceful day. With Asha's help, I buy tea, careful to have enough for my friends (in fact, we return to the stall twice). The children have gathered on the ground, preparing food (or are they playing), a nice little scene. Eventually, Asha and I enter Ruxanna's tent where we spent a long time talking. She insists on showing us a mother cat and her newly born kittens, excitedly pointing to how the cat takes the babies in her mouth to carry them.
Four of Ruxanna's five children are today staying with her, the last one with her husband's parents. As I've seen often before, she has created a cradle by hanging a piece of cloth from one of the beams, in which she is swaying little Sophia to and fro. I jump on the opportunity to take pictures of the child.


-- Sophia inside the cradle --


As we're chatting, Ruxanna tells me the story of a cobra which was found in front of Kupamma's tent. She describes the shape and sound the snake makes when it's about to strike, miming with her hand. A few man were able to catch the animal in a jute bag, took it away and released it, without killing it, she insists. The snake, being the representation of Lord Shiva, should not be killed, she adds, showing again how liberally religious beliefs are mixed in the community (she is Muslim). I point at the small box hanging from her necklace, which she says protects from all evil.
I have asked to go to the nearby Sai Baba Ashram with them, but we again postpone to next Sunday. Instead, she produces a Sai Baba card from her purse, then looks for the scented powder it contains, which is also endowed with healing properties. She shows me similar necklaces around the other children's necks. Speaking of, she asks me if I'd be able to buy the children's anklets for Diwalli as we had discussed. I am still thinking. As an alternate, she proposes buying Sarees for all the women for Dessara, 200rs. per saree she says.
I have gotten back into the habit of carrying my little notebook, so we organize a drawing game, taking turns in complementing each other's drawings. I even get Ruxanna to participate, who draws a series of hieroglyphics looking pictures, representing sun, bird, etc., before apologizing that she can't draw as well as the children having not gone to school. I encourage to simply see things in her mind before putting them on paper. I try to get Sazia to draw something other then the usual Mosque. She complies, but then the Mosque comes from her younger sister Nazia, beautifully adorned with trees and flowers. Asha gets the price for most elaborate drawings. Nazia then takes my camera, disappears outside before I call her back in (she has taken mostly self-portraits).
In the meantime, Sampa has joined us, at the doorstep. She too takes the notebook to draw Rangolli designs. Ruxanna has gone to see a Kannada movie in Chansandra, Sampa and Asha ask me if I would go today at 4 (40 or 20 rs. they tell me, depending on the class), but although curious I don't want to wait this long.
I ask Sampa about Valli, who she tells me has gone back with her husband in Bangalore, the crisis over. Deivani has moved out too, also joining her husband, in TamilNadu. You stay alone, I say while she makes her kia karna? face. I tell her that I met her mother in Patalamalevet this morning, not looking well. We're about to leave the tent, but before exiting I notice Nazia laying on the floor looking sad. She starts crying as I approach her, apparently sick. Ruxanna applies some balm to her temples. I touch the girl's forehead with my hand, as if it could wield some healing power.

Sampa and Asha have moved outside to make flower garlands. They install a mat on the ground for me to sit with them. This practice, extremely common here, requires quite some skill. Sampa tells me she learned this for a year, after which she used to sell garlands at the Sai Baba Ashram. And why not now, I ask, to which she replies she can no longer work with the children. She lets Asha take over, carefully supervising her work, giving her advice on how to appropriately overlap the flowers for the desired effect.


-- Asha and Sampa creating flower garlands --


Ruxanna reminds me that I haven't bought her ration for some time. She encourages me to come back tomorrow to go shop with her, Sampa, Arpudam, and Asha's mom, 5kgs rice per family. But I can't do this any more. I invite her back inside the tent for a quick council, followed by Asha who's asked to join us. I explain the dilemna, state that I can no longer create such conflicts in the community by giving to certain members. And even if we went tomorrow for these people, what about the others, Rosie for example, with whom I'm on speaking terms again? I ask her how does Vijay Kumar does it, to which she replies that he recently bought 2kgs rice for each tent. We both try to strategize on how I could do something similar, how to carry the load, how to pay for it. Bahout Zyada, she concludes sadly.
For now, we decide to go buy juice across the street at the bus station. Outside, Kupamma asks for 1/2 litre Mazaa (a mango juice). As we're walking out, all the children hold my hands, fighting as usual over them, but I ask that they be left behind. This only works temporarily, since at the shop we're soon joined by the loud rowdy crowd of all the slum children, meandering dangerously between the dangerous buses. We buy eight bottles of juice and ten packets of biscuits, and a cold Coke for me (for 466Rs.). Near the railroad crossing, I say goodbye, to Sampa and Ruxanna's disappointment. But finally Ruxanna sends me off with a smile, Thik hai, tum jao...


-- Ruxanna with children - Ramaka with child --


I have barely started running in Kadugodi that I run into Sathya and Manni and friends, happily walking in the street, apparently unconcerned by their younger brother's disappearance. They've gathered a few miscellaneous objects, a broken phone, a Sai Baba book (which they thought was in English but is actually in some Slave language), and a lipstick which Sathia has applied to herself in awfully gawdy fashion. I meet her best friend Shamla (whom I've heard from before), and see again Salim, today accompanied by another boy by the name of Moubarak, who's half bald. Little Sangita is keeping Gutkha in a pouch, which she reassures me is not for her. I take pictures of them before resuming the run.


-- Sangitha and Sathia - Sathia and Manni --

On the road along the track, I happen to cross many manual laborers breaking away from work, invading the decrepit roadside food shacks, their feet and clothes covered in blue gray dust, wearing turbans. I decide to explore this road further than the ITPL turnout, following the tracks for some time until a bifurcation leads me to the busy ITPL road intersection. From there, cutting straight through proletarian neighborhoods (I've run here a few times a long time back), I ask my way to the Sai Baba Hospital (finding a great shortcut), and from there to the Pattandur Agrahara "Lake Community" to meet Sonu Khan, whose Ganesha Chaturthi photographs I'm still carrying.
But the community appears nearly deserted. A group of young men greets me, and tell me that Sonu's wife must be in her room. I cautiously knock at the door - no response. The men point out that they could see the photos too, so I show them. They encourage me to wait for Tayamma as she must be out washing. Indeed she soon comes back, and I'm able to hand her the beautiful photos of Sonu and his daughter Nisha in front of the beautiful Ganesha altar they had built here. She tells me Sonu is sleeping, proposes to wake him up but I prefer not to, respecting his rest. (If we wake him up, he'll be mad, I say, which she denies smiling). I show her the photo of missing Ganesha who used to live here with Manni and Sathia, when I had first met them, but she doesn't remember the little boy at first. She too holds little hope that he could be found.

I run back through Pattandur and Nellurahalli, making a quick detour through the Dunmore House area. But I am weakening, as I haven't eaten anything since morning, and it's near three o'clock. I struggle to complete the run, return shaken by the day's events.








-- Sathia, Manni, Sangita (in Chansandra) --



Training run, "Hoskote" (23.8 miles) -- 10/10/10


Palm Meadows - Imadhalli - stayed on the road - Chansandra - Patalamalevet: 0:42:07
Back along the main road into Chansandra - then back again, across the rail tracks - First followed a dirt road heading East along the railway - Then turned North on a trail to NH207 in some village: 0:30:46
NH207 to Hoskote, junction with NH4: 0:35:56
Headed back West on NH4- Then small road through villages back in direction of Kadugodi - Reconnected with main road near Kadugodi: 1:02:23
Back through Dinur - ELIM/ECC route - Palm Meadows: 0:43:02
Time: 3:34:16
Mileage: 23.8 Miles



(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)

Had not planned such a long run at all. I first make it to Patalamalevet where on the main road I meet Sathia, Manni, Sangita and Shamla (Sathia's best friend). They're pushing around a metal chariot, which Sathia says comes from a factory. Sangita looks particularly disheveled as if she had just come out of bed. We take a few pictures, both in the street and on a dirt mound. A woman comes to us making sure everything is ok. She comments to me on the children's miserable life. Sathia is actually no longer staying at the hostel it seems, having probably run away again. And still no news of little Ganesh, who still hasn't been found.
I leave them to meet the parents. In the bottom floor of house under construction, I meet Murgesh, who has grown a beard, and can barely speak today for some reason. An inert shape on the floor under a cover must be his wife Sampa. He confirms that their son Ganesh hasn't returned, mostly with head signs. I show him the passport size photos of the child that I've been using, without eliciting much reaction. Some slumdweller from Pattandur Agrahara said he would meet me here today, but given the lack of contact, I don't stay.
I'd like to reconnect with Sathia and Manni so run back up the main road towards Chansadra, eventually catching up with them, still lugging their strange chariot. I witness someone just about to hit them, as if they were about to steal something, a testament to these children's infamous reputation. They ask for biscuits which I buy for them at a road-side store. We then part, although I would have loved to follow them, to witness a day in their lives. But how could I do that without getting in the way?


-- Manni, Sangita and Sathia --


I retrace my steps back towards the rail tracks, decide there to explore something different. I continue straight past the crossing, follow small alleys through the outskirts of Kadugogi, eventually landing on a dirt road which more or less follows the railway. Eventually, I turn left into a dirt trail which leads me through the fields and farmlands, rare hamlets. My plan is to keep going on this until I find a road which would head back west, towards the main road leading back to Kadugodi. I do eventually find a road in some village (name unknown), but I slowly realize that this road (NH207) is headed North, and no junctions going West. A road sign in Kannada (which I'm proud to read!) indicates Hoskote as the destination. But I definitely haven't planned for something this long (this could end up being almost a Marathon distance), so I stop at a shop to buy bananas and Coca Cola. The main confirms that I'm about to reach Hoskote, that I should be able to return to Kadugodi that way, although it will take longer.
Hoskote is a relatively big town, busy and chaotic, with cluttered traffic, street merchants, crowds... I reach the main thoroughfare, NH4, a wide road which is partially under construction. Here the crowd is at its peak, people boarding honking buses (I notice a man boarding with a goat) in the usual pele-mele. I run along this quasi-freeway, which of course is quite unpleasant, although the construction work has freed up portions where I can run away from the trafic and pollution.
I notice an appealing trail on the left, try it out, only to be discouraged a little later by someone to whom I've asked my way. I wonder if he's right and whether this would connect back to some road in my direction, but I can't take the chance to experiment. He confirms to me that I will find an intersection on the main road that will lead me back to Kadugodi.
Shortly before reaching that though, I notice a smaller road and decide to give it a shot. This works great! Far more pleasant than the main road would be, it takes me through rural landscapes and small villages, where my unusual passage is as usual quite welcome. I've been carrying a single flask of water which I need to refill. There are many public taps in the villages, but after asking I'm directed to the ones that are safe to drink (although you could probably tell by the constant trafic of colored plastic jars at those particular points). I confirm my way several times along the way, getting full reassurance that I am headed in the right direction. Finally, in a somewhat bigger village, I hesitate between two roads, one which will continue in the fields, another one that will take me back to the main road, and after some experimentation, decide for the latter.
Back on the main road, I first feel a little discouraged. This is not a pleasant place to run, and I fear I'm further away still than I had hoped (I've run here once a very long time ago by the way, so it's not completely unknown). But luckily, I soon enter the urban area, and eventually recognize the familiar ramp to the bridge. I've made it back to Kadugodi!

I break from my run as I'm passing a few Sai Baba paraphenalia shops, stop at the bakery to buy drinks and biscuits, both for myself and the Kadugodi community. I run into Asha first, who has seen me crossing the railroad, so I enter the community escorted by the teen girl. She organizes distribution of drinks and cookies, asking every child to fetch a glass and stand in line. Prashanth the minute he sees me walks to me to grab my chin, wanting to play Barbichette (he doesn't understand the game at all, but really enjoys it). I talk briefly to both Sampa and Ruxanna (whose husband is here by the way), but today I'm grabbed by Rosie and the "Hindi speaking fat woman" for a quick meal in Rosie's house. I finally learn the woman's name Kaliani as we exchange phone numbers. To my surprise, Deivani has returned from Tamil Nadu, although I don't fully understand whether she has separated from her husband or whether this is temporary. They accuse him of not earning any money. Even Deivani is Sampa's sister, the Rosie and Kaliani plea for me to help her with medical exams for her pregnancy. We go through a booklet from the Government Hospital in Chansandra (most of which is in Kannada), which states that she is overdue for a "scanning", for which she of course has no money. After realizing that the place is open on Sunday mornings, we agree to go with her next Sunday, before my friends from the DDU come into the community to conduct an Art Camp.
I show them the photo of Bos (Ganesh), explain again the story. Kaliani, as others, laments the dreadful conditions of these children, the horrible parents. I tell her that there is some good news at least in the fact that Sathia has now joined a hostel, but Kaliani retorts that Sathia must have lied to me, that she is no longer going. She's probably right unfortunately, given the girls history of running away back into the streets - besides, how is it that I met her this morning roaming the streets if she's supposed to be staying in the Hostel? Kaliani thinks that baby Ganesh must have been abducted and taken to Beggar's Colony, a large area near a mental hospital which she calls Niemans (although I'm probably transcribing that wrong). The children are used for begging. In the middle of this conversation, Jayanti happens to call. She has taken little Ganesh's photo to the Ashram, has shown it to Nithyananda Swamiji. She says the Swamiji has predicted that the boy should return in ten days.
Arpudam joins us. I have (finally) brought the pictures from that day where Kupamma, Ruxanna and the kids had come home, with great photos of Gaiatree playing Tabla. At some point, I let out their typical exclamation, Oyoo, and explain to them how it has stuck in my mind, to the point where I repeat unwillingly even at work, which makes them laugh. Indeed, it's hard to not get caught by its recurring usage and its particular singing inflexion Oyooooo, emphasizing the last syllable. This is the Tamil equivalent of the Hindi Aré, something like oh God! in English. Arpurdam complains that her family has not benefited from the juice and biscuits earlier, so we do a quick run to the bus stand, in a relatively organized fashion.
Running back, on the large field past Dinur, I notice a woman in Saree running from the road, as if to intercept my path. She eventually calls my name. It's Ambuja's mother, from Harohalli! They invite me back in Dinur where some of her family lives (I knew that, as a coincidence, the Harohalli villagers had family ties here, but I had never met them), where I'm received like a king. They too insist that I come back next week, as a large Pooja will be performed here.




-- Playing "Barbichette" with Prashanth --






Dassara, The end of Kadugodi -- 10/17/10


Saturday 10/16/10:
Palm Meadows - Vartur - Gunjur - Left on the road to Katiregupa: 0:52:47
Nerige - "Junction": 0:18:18
Hanuman crossing - Mutsandra - Kottur - Harohalli: 0:44:10
Time: 1:55:10 (could be long?)
Mileage: 12.8 Miles

Sunday 10/17/10:
Palm Meadows - Hagadur - Imadhalli - "North Trail" - Chandsandra - Kadugodi: 0:52:09
Through Kadugodi - Along the railway - to ITPL - Pattandur "Lake Community" - Nellurahalli - Dunmore House area - back via West Trail: 1:02:20
Mileage: 12.7 Miles



(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)


- Saturday -
Hesitant where to run. This weekend is complicated as usual. We had planned to go into the Kadugodi community on Sunday to do an "art camp", but because of the Dassara holiday, most people aren't available, so we push again. Instead, I plan to buy food rations for the whole community tomorrow. I first think I should go to Kadugodi to inform them of the change of plans, but seeing the intermittent sunshine in the morning, I finally decide for the villages, hoping to catch some of the festival celebrations.
But the villages are much quieter than I would have expected. As usual, different people are holding the festival on different days, so it's hard to follow. In Nerige though, I am stopped by the villagers. They've assembled a number of bicycles in front of the temple, (5000Rs / bike they tell me), and will perform a Pooja at 10:30. But I can't wait this long, decide to continue.
For a change (and against the villagers advice who are pointing me to the shorter route), I take the longer tour in direction of Mutsandra, like in the very early days. Even there, things are quiet as I pass the narrow alleys of the village. Mutsandra, in spite of its modest size, has twenty temples!
I've been recovering from last week's monster run, and don't want to extend this too long. Slightly discouraged, I opt to reach Harohalli to phone Xavier from there. I first meet Manjula and her husband who serve me a small meal, then Neetra and Roopa. I ask Roopa if she would come with me to Kadugodi tomorrow to help distribute the food. She accepts enthusiastically.





-- Satia and Shamla playing, Patalamalevet --


- Sunday -
Here I am on the run again, again two relatively long runs in a row. Last week, we had agreed that I would meet Deivani at 8am in Kadugodi to take her to the hospital to perform a scan for her pregnancy, before my friends would come in around 10:30 for the art activities. I start a bit late, at 8 from the house, and therefore won't reach before 9 at best, especially since I've chosen the longer road through the beautiful fields (I've promised myself to not pay undue attention to the exact hour any more!). But first stop in Patalamalevet.
As I approach the area, I see a teen girl playing with rocks on the ground, nearby the tree that has sheltered Satia's family. This would make a great photo, but not knowing the girl, I let the opportunity go by. I approach the house under construction. Today, only Satia and her mother Sampa are there, both looking horrible, the worst I've seen. Sampa's face is all puffed up, her lips gnawed by cuts, her mouth red with blood and Paan. I ask her, or rather state, that she is not doing well, to which she nods her head painfully. Satia doesn't look herself either, showing her mother the palm of her right hand which is hurt, now covered with a white powder. I feel a little silly with my photos in front of their distress, completely helpless at the sight of this wretched woman who probably could not be helped, feeling that I've caught today in her true despair. I make signs to Satia who follows me to the side of the house to distribute the photos from the previous couple weeks. We sit together, are joined by the girl who was playing in the dirt, who turns out to be no other than Shamla, Satia's friend. We discover together the great photos, and am heartened to hear their laughs and amused comments, which I cannot understand. The girls like the pictures so much that they scrutinize them a second time, carefully distributing amongst themselves, with no argument, a short episode which perhaps provides temporary relief from this terrible misery. "Sacchi Dost", I point at their photos together.
We're eventually joined by Manni, arriving from the Kadugodi direction. I ask the two girls to reconstitute the scene of them playing with the rocks so I can take pictures, although these look somewhat staged compared to the simplicity of the scene earlier. I look at Satia's hand again. The girls explain that she fell. I try to touch around the wound very softly, but Satia immediately recoils in pain.




-- Gaiatree and Pushpalata playing with the dragonfly, Kadugodi --


In Kadugodi, Pushpalata (whose eye is swollen from an insect bite) has caught a dragonfly, which she holds by the wings in her mouth while trying to tie a knot with a string. Helped by Gaiatree, they manage to tie the insect's body, then holding it on a leash as it tries to fly around. A few times, the insect escapes their hold to fly around dragging around the heavy string, then landing before being caught again.
A couple men (whom I don't know) have invited me to sit. We hear a women's loud voices coming from the other side of the community. Kuch Bahas? I ask, to which they nod as indeed some argument is going on. Deivani appears though, for once looking very happy, says she has to change before going to the hospital. But I object that due to the Dassara festival the hospital will almost certainly be closed, to which the men agree again. We are joined by Suresh, while I distribute a heavy stack of photos. Kupamma once again asks for Gaiatree's photo playing Tabla, but I'm sure to have brought it here (perhaps no one gave it to her). Sampa appears, her face altered, her eyes grossly swollen, which she soon covers with sunglasses at Suresh's injunction. Madras eye, they explain, before making fun of her movie star looks.
I reveal my plan to come tomorrow to offer food for everyone for the Dassara festival. But Suresh meets this with disapproval, saying that again this will create Jhagra (fighting). The other two men agree, also strongly advising me to drop that plan. They explain that even if I brought "rations" for each tent (25 in total), because the number of dwellers varies so much from tent to tent this would inevitably create conflicts. I don't understand all their approximate Hindi, but it sounds that if I need to feel good in my heart, then I'd better go give the food to a Mandir rather then bothering them. A fat policeman arrives into the scene, walking slowly into the community without a word, as if scrutinizing the environment, bringing everything to a halt. The conversation resumes where it had stop once he's gone, with Kupamma now joining in, further confusing matters. Could this become yet another argument? Taking the matters in hand, Suresh invites me to the tea stall in front of the slum, Chai pikar jao... Time has come.
This could be the end, I feel. I drink two cups, discouraged, gradually realizing that I may never return to Kadugodi, overwhelmed by the endless difficulties of this group. Clearly, I have failed here, and need to rebuilt elsewhere differently. Such a sad moment, as many unforgettable times have been spent with this fascinating group. Yet I saw this coming, as the questions regarding my influence here had week after week become more acute. What was I bringing here exactly? Perhaps it's better so, although I will miss the endless conversations with sampa and Ruxanna dearly. Not having said goodbye to anyone, I part with Suresh who has insisted on buying me this last tea, probably happy to see me leave, at last.

Carrying heavily the end of era of sorts, I choose the longer way along the tracks towards ITPL, feeling despondent, still understanding the moment. In Pattandur Agrahara, a particularly loud Dassara celebration blocks the narrow street, to the deafening rhythm of the drums preceding the idol's chariot. Affected, I decide to visit my old friends in Nellurahalli, the Dunmore House area where all had started with Giryamma's family, those magic moments that elapsed before her family left for their native Gulbarga. It feels like coming back to family. The children of the construction workers accompany me to the temple to get water (they have been sent by their parents with a few jars). I meet Krishna's beautiful baby and wife, of whom we take many pictures. In the third settlement, Simon asks me why have I neglected them for so long?

I was always going to Kadugodi, I explain sheepishly.




-- Krishna's wife and child, Nellurhalli --




- Monday -
Today is off for the Dassara holiday. I have run more than enough for the past couple days, so decide to cycle instead. Besides, my plan is to bring sweets to a few of the communities, for the holiday.
It's a gorgeous day of pure sunshine. I feel freed in some way from the presence of Kadugodi, sad yet relieved, now realizing what heavy burden the community had put on me. Imagine running free again, the renewed thrill of new discoveries, exploring careless as in the early days. I imagine life after Kadugodi, no longer compelled to visit there always, an opportunity to connect with those other better communities which I had been neglecting to some extent, as so much energy went into Kadugodi. I had felt a constant quandary of fascination and doubt, whose break eventually lightens my spirit, as if liberated from a dark spell. And cycling is so much easier then running! My body feels fully recovered, light, as from the influence of Swamiji.

Buying boxes of sweets along the way ("mix-u"), I first stop by Krishna's shack in Nellurhalli, in the second settlement of the Dunmore House area (which used to be Giryamma's). I first see the children playing in a puddle, offer them a box of sweets as they run to me. Krshna, also not working today, asks me if I am on leave (I only recognize the English word after some time as he pronounces it something like "li-ew"). We sit there while his wife offers us tea, on that same bench that I used to sit with Giryamma's family. The children run with me (they call it walking) to the third settlement where most dwellers are idly sitting outside. I give them the remaining two boxes of sweets, then buy three more on the road to Pattandur, to meet Sonu Khan in the Lake Community.

Sonu is busy with a group of men, making plans to build a small shop near the entrance of the community. We chat for a while, his Hindi being one of the most understandable to me. He asks me if little Ganesh has been found, says that he showed the picture to his friends, but no news. He repeats once again how these people are evil, contrasting that with his own life. I explain that I've given up on the Kadugodi communities, discouraged.
Sonu tells me more about his own past, having emigrated here from Bihar where life was hard and dangerous (people would kill you for only 100 Rs, he describes). His wife's original name is Rashmi, and I gather that because she is Hindu, they had to keep their marriage at its simplest, and she nad to change her name. Sonu describes his goal to work abroad to earn more money, in Koweit, where he has apparently been before. He quickly runs to the house to come back with a plastic pouch from which he produces various documents: Photos from their marriage on which neither of them appear as beautiful as they are in real life (in fact, we make fun of the pictures, taken as if they had been in half-slumber, in spite of their great happiness that day). Sonu (his real name something Ali) shows me little Nisha's birth certificate, then his passport, asking me to read its expiration date, 2017. Seven years are left, he concludes visibly relieved. We then read a paper which depicts several job descriptions with their corresponding salaries. Mason, he points out.

From there, I climb the short hill up Whitefield to descend into the lush fields, arriving in Madhuranagar where I meet Shilpa and family to offer sweets. Shilpa is applying oil to the hair of a woman named Saraswati, whom she describes as her friend. Saraswati then invites us to her house right around the corner, more modern than Shilpa's, offers us a little food.



-- Shilpa and Saraswati --








-- The children of Harohalli at the DDU --
(photo by Mayank Kanyal)



Second visit to ITPL -- 10/21/10



(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)


I've promised the children of Harohalli to do this for a long time. They had already come to the DDU last December. That time, we had organized a quick animation workshop, and shown them a few pieces of our work. While showing them the "Bride of Gingy", fearing that it might be scary for the little ones (particularly Ruchita), I had interrupted the sequence. Since then, they've kept asking, "when do we see the end of Cookie?".
Maiatrayee has sent three cars to get them in Harohalli. They're supposed to arrive at six, but sure enough are quite late. I've asked Roopa to select twenty members. This year, no adults accompany them. In the lobby, Mayank takes a few group pictures, then we tour the facility, stopping at a few artists desk who perform quick demos. How things have changed in a year! I remember from last time Rakesh clinging nervously on to me, afraid of the dark floor, and the children's unusual silence, but none of that this year, as they appear so much more comfortable, under everyone's benevolent eyes. It's such a sight to hear them greet loudly in unison the few people they know. We conclude the tour in the FX review room where we show them a few sequences from Scared Shrekless, and finally the end of "Bride of Gingy". It's hard to say how much they relate to it, as they watch mostly silent (they've never heard of Halloween of course). We then take them downstairs to eat at Kadamba (Jayanti, Mahdavrao, Nikhil and "Uncle" Rakesh" have come), where we order a few Dosas that we all share. Going back, the children have divided themselves into two groups. I am with the boys, whose ferociously loud singing turns heads all along the way. We reach the village around 9pm.







-- Lakshmi and Bhavani, Dunmore House settlements, Nellurahalli --



Training run (14.9 Miles) -- 10/24/10

Palm Meadows - West Trail - Dunmore House settlements - Nellurahalli - Pattandur Agrahara - Whitefield Hill - Down into the fields - Ajgondanahalli - Timandanahalli - Harohalli: 1:26:55
Back through the classic Ajgondanahalli road, although with a few forced detours due to the high level of the waters: 0:46:51
Time: 2:13:47
Mileage: 14.9 Miles
Wght: 154


-- With the jewelry merchant: Bassama, Krishna's mother, wife and child --



(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)

First stop in the Dunmore House settlements, where I offer Krishna and his wife the beautiful photos of his family. Children from the neigbouring settlement gather as they've caught wind of my arrival, also take their photos. At that time comes one of those habitual jewelry merchants, women that walk the slums carrying suitcases of cheap jewelry on their heads, selling as they go. Everyone gathers around her.
I meet Samuel and Simon in the third settlement (where Hindi is the best, since many of the dwellers have lived in Mumbai as well). Simon takes me to his "room" to take photos of his one-month-old newborn. These people are all construction workers, but talking to them I realize that some can't work for health reason. It appears obvious to me that this is where we should do our next clothes distribution. This particular community is Christian, and some have dressed up to go to the little informal church in Nellurahalli, which I've been planning to visit.



-- Simon's wife and newborn child --


But not today. I am awaited in Harohalli, where Roopa has said that I could meet Nethra future husband Muniraj. I run the long way through Pattandur, passing by the Lake Community which is quiet today. But a further up the road I cross Sonu's wife walking, and stop to offer the few pictures of her children that I've been carrying.
From there, I run up the Whitefield hill, and down on the other side through the poorer areas of Whitefield, a long road down that eventually leads to the beautiful countryside. This is bound to become a new area of exploration for me. I tried commuting to work through here last week (which takes about an hour), and yesterday visited a marvelous school with Malika Ghose, a school that offers free tuition to the children from the nearby slums. This new opportunity provides a much more grounded approach than what I've haphazardly done so far.
But running uninterrupted is just about impossible now. On the road to Ajgondanhalli, I am stopped by Raman's family, this Muslim boy who I haven't met in a long time for some reason. They offer me water and juice, and invite me for the upcoming Eid (this is the family that has migrated from Assam under apparently horrible conditions. The boy says he speaks about ten indian languages.) I then resist children's calls for photos in Ajgondanahalli, but am again stopped in the next village by a group playing kabari, kabari, a form of tag. A group of three adults have joined the children. They explain that they've driven here from Bangalore to play with the kids, in the name of Lord Krishna. They invite me into the game but I need to finally reach Harohalli.
Roopa's family is all here, Roopa's father, Nethra's two sisters, and little Ruchita, who of course has changed quite a bit since I last saw her. She's wearing a school uniform, and her little face, still mischevious, has grown more mature. She has started to write (in Kannada) and proudly shows me how she can write the name of each family member.
I salute Roopa's father, but the women escort me into a smaller room where we sit on the floor and eat a bite, saving some apetite for later when the groom will arrive. But we soon learn that this has been canceled for today, due to an uncle's death in the family.
I have brought a deck of cards, as last time, Roopa had told me she didn't know how to play. After quickly explaining the cards, we start simple with a game of Bataille just to teach everyone the value of the cards. Lavania is the lucky and seems to keep winning, but eventually, Roopa gets tired of the game. So I now teach the superior "Bataille Corse", which captures everyone. Roopa really taking to the game is able to come back spectacularly from no cards at all to winning the whole thing. Nethra serves us a bigger meal, after which I'm given a good dose of Paan (which makes me sweat profusely). Eventually, Roopa's father and the sisters leave for Dodbalapuram on two motorbikes, but the children Arun, Shirisha and Ruchita have refused to leave, whining (they'll return in a few days by bus). We resume our card games, this time drawing the interest of the men of the house, one of whom plays with us for a long time. Eventually the party ends, and it's time for me to leave, in spite of Nethra's insistence (it's already three o'clock).
On the way back, following the small trails, I get stuck by an impassable ford across a swollen stream, so have to retrace my steps to find another way into Imadhalli.


-- Eating at Roopa's house -- Ruchita --





-- Sangita (in Patalamalevet) --

Sathia and Sangita -- 10/30/10
Sergueï Prokoviev: Concerto pour Piano no. 5


Palm Meadows - Hagadur rd. - Imadhalli - Northern Route - Chansandra - Patalamalevet: 0:45:58
Kadugodi - Dinur: 0:10:50
ECC route back home: 0:28:11
Time: 1:25:00
Mileage: 9.8 Miles



(Link to complete photographs on Flickr)

I don't have too much time today, as I'll be flying to Mumbai for a presentation later in the day. My decision to not return to Kadugodi has been weighing on me for the past two weeks. I can't quite get away for the enthralling times spent over there, their faces still vivid in my mind. I therefore decide to run through the area again, leaving the possibilities open if I happen to meet someone.
It's a cloudy overcast day, mild temperatures, actually quite pleasant for running (my running has been great all week, feeling somehow fully rested). I stop in a hamlet along the northern route to distribute a few pictures. I elect to not run the "snake trail", but instead go through the Chansandra main road, in case I might meet Sathia and friends there. It's not been very long, but returning here feels like plunging back into the dark, a mesmerizing impression of visceral emotions. Somehow Prokofiev 5th concerto has implanted itself in my head, a chaotic melange of bombastic lyricism and frenetic rhythm (the composer's self proclaimed motor and lyric styles). The street is actually relatively quiet, but approaching the house under construction which shelters Sathia and family, I hear the excited cries of the little one. It's the little brother (whose name is Chet) who has seen me first, calls Sathia and Sangita. Sathia is as usual wearing a different set of clothes (where does she get them from), for once oversized (usuallly it's too small). Sangita looks like she just got out of bed, her hair wild. No trace of the parents Murgesh and Sampa, or of little Bos who still hasn't been found. Sangita asks me if I could give her a photo of the lost child.


-- Sathia, getting Chet and Sangita ready --


-- Sathia, applying her own make-up --


I offer to take pictures once more, which puts excited smiles on everyone's faces. We're soon joined by Shamla (Sathia's friend). Sathia prepares everyone for the photo shoot, applying powder and make-up. As she's rummaging through a pile of stuff, she finds an empty bottle of whiskey. She takes a piece of a broken mirror to apply her own make-up. I observe the Eiffel tower on little Chet's t-shirt, Mera Desh, Mera Shahar, I try to explain pointing excitedly, but I don't know if they understand. Today's photos are particularly inspiring. They translate the love that we have for each other, these rare careless moments that we're able to spend together in spite of these horrible circumstances. Sangita as usual is the most inventive, coming up with funny ideas. She directs us to take Sai Baba pictures, so we all take meditation poses. She then takes monster poses with a tomato in her mouth. I let them handle the camera as well.
We eventually part, although not having had enough of each other. Standing in the street with the boy from the Emu House, I watch them walk away. "What are they doing now?", I ask the boy. "Nothing, just walking in the street", he concludes somewhat poetically.


-- Sathia and Chet - Sangita in "Sai Baba" pose --

I take the familiar way into Kadugodi, across the railtracks through the opening in the wall, then along the busy street that parallels the tracks, alive with street merchants and trafic. A noisy band of monkeys is scurrying at the foot of a tree, not such a common site in Bangalore. A train has just arrived so I'm drowned within the crowd as I cross the tracks again towards Sampa's community. I walk past the familiar tea stall on the lookout for familiar faces, but all is unusually quiet this morning. So be it! I pass my way...

I have brought photos from Ambuja's relatives whom I had met in Dinur. I stop in the little village and ask around. Soon I'm led through the back alleys to the right house, where I'm able to distribute the pictures. A good time of course, as I am generously invited inside. I refuse food though, pretexting that I need to hurry home to catch my flight to Mumbai.









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